March 2014 - Here we go again....

Once again the Bertrams are heading North to escape the NZ winter.  This time we are going earlier than in the past, starting in early June and returning late August.

Since our last trip in this blog we have spent most of the time divided between our places in Auckland and Onemana.  A 10 day trip to South Australia in July 2013 was our only excursion of note.

This time, as we will be travelling in the high season, we have booked the entire trip ahead of time which is a first for us as we like to adjust the trip when we come across things of interest.  I hope the proposed schedule does not limit us too much.

THE PLAN:
The trip starts with a few days in Kent, a flight down to Rome where we pick up a car, 4 days in southern Italy before taking a ferry to Dubrovnik.

We were thinking of spending time in Greece, but decided that the distances were too much so will head north with a couple of weeks in Croatia, Bosnia and Slovenia.  Then it's on the road through the Dolomites to a couple of days in our favourite hotel in Trento.  The next week will take us through Switzerland and down to the south coast in Provence.

10 days in Provence, then a 3 day road trip up to the Loire east of Tours, 2 weeks in Brittany, 1 week in Normandy and a quick visit to Giverny (Monet's gardens) will round out the trip.

All in all it will take us through mainly new territory for us with a few visits to places we've in the past.  Roll on June!

8 August 2012 - Paris

LAST DAY IN EUROPE - Time does go so fast.

After our stay in Yorkshire we headed down the A2 to Sandway in Kent where we spen 2 days with our friends Margaret and Peter.  Their house is a lovely 4 bedroom 3 storey quirky place built on ancient farm cottages.  Floors are not level and the walls are 3 feet thick, but it is very comfortable and well provided.  From the patio you can see 30 miles over the Weald into Sussex with almost no houses in sight.  One of the main memories I have of the house is the access - from the nearest village it is 2 miles through country roads that are 2m wide with high hedges either side and a regular traffic of very large tractors with even larger trailers always heading in the opposing direction.  That is just to get to the gate - there is another 1/2 mile of a rough gravel track to reach the house.

Gillian and friend Jack at Sandway

Then 2 days in Paris - we have kept it simple with a wander down Champs-Elysee, visits to Sacre-Coeur, Notre-Dame and the Eiffel Tower and as much time as we could stand in the Louvre.

 Champs Elysee looking toward Arc de Triomphe

 When you're in Paris you have to visit.

Sacre Coeur and crowds.

We are now packing for the trip home - we have a 14 hour stopover in Kuala Lumpur which we may well spend in our dayroom at the airport, depending on the weather.

So this is Stephen signing off from Paris.

3 August 2012 – West Witton

Yesterday was the grand tour of the dales in circuit that took in Swaledale, Wharfedale, Coverdale, Wensleydale and Arkengarthdate. We had a suggested route from our hosts which took us over the moors and through the dales with stops at Askrigg and Hawes to visit locations used for the TV series All Creatures Great & Small.  Once again the gentle valleys, dry stone walls, small market towns and mellow stone buildings created a gentle image of farming in a bygone age.  The cows can be weird too...

 A pub in Askrigg used in the TV series

The market square in Hawes, also used in the series

 

 A view over Wharfedale

A local

I thoroughly enjoyed  the roads, but Gillian has worn her fingernails to the bone hanging on in terror. I should mention that we stopped in Hawes and wandered round finishing up up gthe Wensleydale Creamery.  Here they have over 25 cheeses available for free tasting.  After the first dozen it is hard to remember the order of preference and to find room for lunch afterwards.

Today we spent time in Bolton Castle, principally famous as the prison for Mary Queen of Scots, but had to rush the visit as it was closing for the afternoon for a wedding. The exterior of the castle is impressive as it is still the full height in most ares and once inside it is larger than it looked. The Parliamentary forces tried to destroy it in the 1600's, but a reasonable amount still remains including the shell of the guest tower & great hall, the family rooms where Mary was kept, 2 major reception rooms and most of the ground floor rooms. The castle was built in the 1300's and reflects the wealth and status of the Scrope family with lavish proportions and facilities – even the dungeon has an en-suite garde-robe (loo).

 Bolton Castle

 Looking down into the courtyard from the battlements

This is at a 6th floor level !

While we were there we watched a demonstration of hawk handling in the courtyard. Apparently the family makeup involves one female with 2 or more males to keep her company...

 A hawk landed on his handler.

We then wandered around the market town of Richmond which is centred around a large cobbled marketplace and has the obligatory large castle overlooking it.

 Marketplace at Richmond

Richmond Castle

And I thought the idea for the military was to catch the world by surprise.....

A road sign seen on the moors

 

2 August 2012 - West Witton

We're now in the Yorkshire Dales.  The trip from Scotland took a full day and the only break was a visit to the family castle at Mitford.  While we have no reliable evidence it would be nice to be able to claim a link back to Sir Roger Bertram, one of William the Conc's Norman knights who built a castle here.  The castle was a earth and wood fort in the 10 century and the existing stone work probably dates from the mid 11th century.  In any case it was entirely destroyed before 1325.  Unfortunately the Bertram family chose the wrong side in a dispute and consequently had the lands seized by the king around 1315.

We had a few hassles finding the place and eventually pulled into the side of a narrow country lane to Gillian's "Why are we stopping here? OH MY GOD THAT'S THE CASTLE" with a view up to a couple of derelict pieces of stonework.  We found a narrow muddy path leading up the hill and found the remains were more impressive than appeared from the road.  The bailey (flat area with living accommodation) was extensive and the motte (formed defended hill) rose some 15m above the bailey.  There had been a substantial wall around the bailey, another around the top of the motte and inside the motte wall there is the base of an unusual pentagonal shaped keep.  All that remains now are portions of each wall and the base and cellar of the crypt.  Apparently a lot of the stone had been reused to build a nearby manor house in the 1300's.  This may or may not be the source of my branch of the Bertrams, but it is nice to think of having a castle in the family.

Gillian sitting in a window(?) in the wall of "her castle"

The remnants of the keep, now protected by stinging nettles

1 August 2012 - Bridge of Earn

Catchup for a few days.

Sunday the main event was a return to the battlefield of Culloden. Since the last time we were here a modern visitors centre has been added. It contains a great display of the events leading up to the battle, but we felt that it detracted from the atmosphere of the remote moor that we found last time. The memorial cairn and the markers placed in the late 19^th century to mark the clans involved still have the most impact – the battle seems to have touched almost every known highland family and you have to wonder why Charlie had the ability to convince the others that he had a chance.

On Monday we called into Scone, the traditional place for crowning the Scottish kings, and spent some time touring the country house (Scone Palace) built by the Murray family. The coronation mound is supposed to have been built up by soil the lords brought on their boots when they came to swear fealty to the current monarch. I have some doubts that the odd 500m3 of the mound actually was just the mud on their boots. The alleged copy of the “Stone of Destiny” certainly doesn't appear much like the stone that was kidnapped from Westminster a while ago, but artistic licence forgiven it is nice to have a point on the ground where you can say “history happened here”.

Gillian with the Stone of Destiny at Scone

The Murray family were given the lands of Scone in 1600, but the current house dates from 1808. The scale of the rooms is huge with a massive state dining room, ante-chambers and galleries. The contents of the house are either priceless collectables or stuff about the family – they assume that someone cares....

The next stop was Arbroath to visit the abbey. Although the building was ruined during the reformation, what remains is impressive. The main historical link here is the Declaration of Arbroath which sought to lift the excommunication of Robert the Bruce and to establish Scotland as an independent nation.

The remains of Abroath Abbey

On the way back to the hotel we called into St Andrews, but decided not to take the time for a round of golf.  However the town was very pleasant with a long main street lined with solid buildings, many of them related to the university.  At the Eastern end the remains of the Cathedral are impressive - this was the main administrative seat for the church in Eastern Scotland.

St Andrews Cathedral

Tuesday we continued the Bruce quest with visits to Dunfermline and Stirling. In the Dunfermline abbey church there is a wealth of historic context. The identified coffin of Robert is re-interred under the pulpit and there are many other Scottish kings (and Robert's wife) that are also in the church, but not identified. Out in the graveyard there is a tree supposedly planted over the grave of the mother of William Wallace (a supposed ancestor of mine). We spent some time debating the merits of various versions of history with a very helpful and enthusiastic guide. The general consensus seems to be whatever story fits your own vision is near enough...

Stirling is the area for the battle of Bannockburn which was Robert's major victory over Edward II. The stories on what happened vary and no-one know exactly where it happened, but the basic facts seem reasonably clear – the event started with a one to one challenge between an English knight and Robert which ended up with Robert's axe buried in the opponents skull, the first day was a minor skirmish which went in favour of Robert and on the second day the Scots had superior tactics and wasted the English. It's ironic that Robert's son ended up marrying Edward's daughter and promoting the cause of the English...

Robert's statue at Bannockburn

We spent quite some time talking to a presenter at the visitor centre.  He had given a demonstration of the armour and weapons that would have been in use and was dressed in full chain mail weighing 5 stone (35kg).  He seemed quite at home swinging broadswords, double handed swords, battle axes and a few other nasties and his descriptions of the effect of the weapons was graphic. 

On Gillian's insistence we then headed to Falkirk where, after a few navigational discussions, we found the Falkirk wheel. This is an amazing bit of show-off engineering designed to reconnect the Union and the Forth & Clyde canals as the connection has been in ruin for the last 50 years. The wheel consists of 2 big tubs, each of which contains 360,000 litres of water with a total weight of 1,000 tonnes. They are connected on opposing sides of an axles so that as the “wheel” turns one sinks as the other rises. As the weight of each is the same it takes little power to carry out the lift. A single half turn lifts boats 75 ft to float down a futuristic aqueduct to the Union canal towards Glasgow. The most impressive achievement to me was the excellent seal that the gates on the tubs which only seemed to lose a litre or 2 on the way round.

The Falkirk Wheel in action.

30 July 2012 - Bridge of Earn

G again.

28 July we stayed at Mansfield Castle Hotel. Stephen had booked this before leaving NZ, thinking I would be due a wee bit of luxury after travelling for 3 days over one way roads in the extreme north of Scotland. We found the hotel in Tain without too much difficulty – from the gate way it was imposing with 16^th and 17^th century architecture.

As we drove up the sweeping drive we encountered the pot holes that are a feature of all Scottish roads, be they lowlands or highlands, main roads or one way roads. We chuckled and came to a halt in a weedy court yard – nothing daunted, we leapt from our car and up the steps to the entry.

I noticed a pot valiantly growing a couple of small polyanthus alongside a sizeable prickle and beside the imposing doorways a tub of healthy grass!

And so began our Fawlty Towers type experience.

This facility has all the elegance of a bygone age with fascinating features to attract guests. However distant glimmers do not always mean you have struck gold. I did something at the end of our stay I have never done before. I asked for a feed back form. The receptionist who was obviously of European origin had no idea what I meant – then began a translation exercise – I finally received 3 blank A4 pages. She must have worked out I had a lot to say!! True.

Below I have edited what I handed in , addressed to the management.

During our stay we noticed

• Upon entry to our room an over-powering aroma of air freshener. Having located the device we turned it off and the “smell” retreated.
• Upon needing more fresh air I tried to further open the sash window. I found it was resting upon a teacup. Removing the cup the window dropped onto my arm – bruising resulted. There is no way of properly using this window as it won't stay open with out the tea cup.
• Bathroom window also has a broken sash cord and couldn't stay open.
• We slept without ventilation that night.
• There is no room for a second bedside light.
• There is no table to use for reading or writing in the room.
• There was no hot water for shower in the evening or this morning. This despite there being a large bathroom with jacuzzi ( when Stephen tried to use this device despite tepid water the air vent wouldn't open!!! )
• While he was wrestling with the air vent Stephen saw the underside of soap dish over the bath has a build-up of grime and mould!!!
• The appearance of hotel over all is of “shabby elegance”. While the staircase is stunning fittings in the public areas and the antique furniture are immaculate the tartan carpet in the dining room is ill fitting around one edge of the dance area.This is a health and safety risk. As is the large split and jagged edge in the wooden seat of the park bench outside the entry.
• Tiny details these maybe but the following examples indicate a lack of care and attention which in turn reflects on management and staff concern for their guests.
  • on our way to our bedroom we noticed a rent in the lace curtains covering one of the windows in the hall way.
  • The paper on the walls of our bedroom was peeling in places.
  • 2 missing candles from the 6 stem candelabra in the entrance hall
  • When my husband first arrived the receptionist “got lost” taking him to our room
  • Help with our luggage would have been welcome as there is no lift .
  • Towels in the bedroom are well worn and beds covered with air cell blankets – these were a favourite in the 19700s.

Finally the food

• Dinner was adequate, typical of pub-style fare.
• A digestive gap between courses would have been welcome.
• As dining is a la carte advice at the time the menu is offered of availability of dishes is preferable to leaving guests to make their selection then announcing that dishes were finished when orders were being taken.

Breakfast

• Breakfast was from 7.30 – 9.30 am.We arrived just before 9:00. Finally at 9:15 we were asked if we wanted a hot drink. By that time it was evident that there was only 1 dish of fruit left – prunes. The menu described 4 types of fruit.
• There were no croissants or rolls evident – both listed on the menu.I was advised they had finished. Would I like toast?When I said I would prefer a roll the waitress went to ask. No I was told. They had been busy and its the end of the week. They had run out.
• Toast it is. Stephen decided to have a continental style breakfast also. He couldn't face the inevitable “we have run out' We were served 2 pieces of sandwich sliced toast. When I asked it we could have another 2 slices the response was that only the heel of the loaf was available. I declined!

These are a few of the food fusses – I won't go on anymore – picture is pretty clear.

I concluded my rant this : Mansfield Castle and Hotel could offer a unique experience for guests while retaining its cost effective modus vivendi. As it stands currently I cannot recommend friends and acquaintances stay here.

We then travelled on and arrived here in Bridge of Earn on 29^th.

It is a hotel in a pub, south of Perth – we selected it as we are mid way between Arbroath Abbey, Dunfermline, Stirling and Scone. This is called The Last Cast and it is delightful fresh, clean, well appointed accommodation. No windows rattle in the wind, attention to detail is delightful – even a port-a-cot folded up in the wardrobe. I write at a table which folds away – no need to use public areas or the bed! Dinner 100 yards away at the local restaurant was delicious and beautifully presented – with a 25% discount on the bill due to staying at Last Cast. The bed, pillows and duvet all in as new condition - fresh, soft and sweet smelling, hot water on tap day and night, freshly cooked breakfast delivered soon after placing our order – sharp contrast with the tired Mansfield castle and for less than half the price.

Today it is back on the path of Robert The Bruce. Scone first where he was crowned by Isabel Mac Duff – who paid sorely for her endeavours, poor lady. Thence to Arbroath where the Declaration of Arbroath was written and sent to the Pope. A powerfully written document, believed to have been written by Bernard of Kilwinning – a protege of Bruce's and a man of acute acumen and political savvy.

28 July 2012 – Tain

The last 2 days have been fascinating as we drove up the North West coast of Scotland from Skye. The landscape to start with was dramatic with glacial scoured valleys and lakes. Gradually the hills reduced in height, the lakes get more numerous and smaller and the landscape is more and more bare rock covered in places with a thin green layer. The hills are hard rock still scraped clean by the ice layer during the ice age and the only sign of life is where moss has accumulated on ledges forming a layer of soil. It is a magnificent and barren landscape and it is amazing that there has been continual human habitation for 4000 years.

 The remains of the Mcleod's castle

 

A view down one of the inlets we passed

The weather hasn't helped with low cloud and occasional rain hiding the higher hills, but even so it is impressive with the hints of hillsides disappearing up into the clouds. Most of the coastline is steep down to the water with occasional shingle beaches, often covered with seaweed. However across the north coast there are some stunning sandy beaches between the cliffs, one of which is apparently used for international surfing contests in winter. Although it is the middle of summer there is no-one on the beaches and most people are wearing coats.

Shingle beach at Ardarnoch

Beach near Durness in the North

We arrived in Tain to find our accommodation tending towards Fawlty Towers. It is a country house that has been converted into a hotel and now epitomises “faded elegance”. From the potholes in the long drive, the wooden outdoor furniture sagging and fragile, the carpet frayed at the edges, the window sash cords broken, the spa bath with the air vent jammed shut, the hot water never getting above lukewarm and the sad choice of fading floral wallpaper. However the scale of the building, the magnificent staircase leading up from the lobby and the labyrinth of passages leading to the rooms lend a grand air.

Mansfield Castle Hotel

To top it off we arrived down for breakfast half an hour before the finish time to be told they were out of rolls, croissants, ham and only toast was available. When the toast arrived it was 2 slices of sandwich bread and apparently was the end of the last loaf. Being Sunday they “couldn't run down to the corner store”. It is such a contrast to the high standards and lavish breakfasts that we have experienced to date throughout the trip.

To be fair the building is imposing with elegantly furnished public rooms and beautiful panelling and a large lawn between the gates and the hotel with a fountain and pond. The rooms are spacious and reasonably well finished, but with a little attention to details and a few fixes the hotel would be superb – it is such a shame to see the property downgraded by such second class management.