12 July - Vienna

Me again – GillieB . We began the day in the hotel restaurant, mulling over the possibilities for the day – weather being warm and fine. With Austrian breakfast and Chris's laptop – Christopher has very kindly lent us his – we decided that attractive as the Monet to Picasso exhibition was we would need some time to do it justice and the countryside beckoned.  So we jumped into our car and headed into the Wachau valley – 40km long we were informed and a UNESCO designated 'pretty place'.  The drive was picturesque. Austria is patterned with cropping – extensive fields sown with wheat / sun flowers / maize and or corn . In the midst of these acres of crops are large stands of trees – in large clumps or rows or alongside the 'local roads” and autobahns. Countryside went from flat or gently undulating to small hills and valleys as we approached the Wachua.We drove beside the town of Melk, crossed the Danube ( Donau) and drove through the small settlement of Emmersdorf – up into much higher country via delicious windy roads with great surfaces ( unlike those of one of the motor ways to Prague we encountered the next day!) – going through a small settlement called Hain and thence St Georgen with delicious houses and farm yards all built in a quite typical style we were recognising as Austrian and came down to the Donau again via a tiny road the width of our car at about 45 degrees. Stephen got very excited and lots of 'Wows' were expleted!!. Entering Emmersdof again we then headed back up into the hilly stuff and drove revelling in the views and passing more flower bedecked villages and onion domed churches until reaching Maria Lach we we had to stop. So many features of which made us ooh and ahh! The information booth – sitting in the village centre had a wonderful, free, map for trampers of the local walks. Great! We seized that with alacrity and made of with it, GillieB telling Stephen what was what in the region for the rest of the drive. Our conversation went something like...”Oh Stephen , look at that tower over in that village!It's an onion tower that's had a baby – i.e. reproduced a smaller onion on top” “Where, what tower?” “ Oh, sorry, it's gone now!” ( He won't let me drive!!!”) 

Village pump in Hofamt

We meandered along the quiet road, up hills and down hills marvelling at the cropping. I am very impressed by the intelligence of the sunflower flower . They turn their faces, without exception, toward whence comes the sun! Sometimes that means we see their faces as we blast on by, burning diesel fumes for them to breathe. Other times they have their heads turned determinedly away in sun worshipping attitudes. Lovely! Oh – and the sun flowers we have seen in Austria / France and Cheska are much small versions of our NZ sunflowers . I conjecture this may be due to them being bred in more ancient soils and thence more knowledgeable about the expenditure of effort to grow the leafy greeny plant thing in ratio to the seeds produced in relation to bangs for your buck ratio or, dare I say it, genetic modification. Same for the wheat and maize plants.

Back to the journey. We carried on wandering along the small , narrow road until coming back to the Donau at Spitz. Stephen ground to a halt at this point – as he had spied a wine cellar with tasting. Lovely, light white and rose were acquired and on we went to Durnstein – also on the river. We parked and climbed up through narrow paths to this town – very old and atmospheric. 1193. That Richard Lion heart was up to his usual military antics and this time was caught, incarcerated by one Leopold I of the district. There he stayed until rescued by his besotted mother – Eleanor of Aquitaine (sp?) who ransomed this driven son of hers. Not much left of the ancient stuff but fascinating for GB and Stephen enjoyed the views, bless him!!! We had lunch in the modern area of the town, near the river. Stephen enjoyed his traditional Frankfurter with dark, solid brown bread. I am still reminiscing about my crème suppe – zucchini! Wow – I am sure I will never be able to replicate this dish. Light – creamy and with such a zucchini enhanced flavour. The French are wonderful cooks. The Italians just as amazing – the Austrian food – less press but truly amazing flavours – just a different style. I haven't managed to acquire an Austrian recipe book but google is a wonderful thing.

OK – back beside the Donau we travelled back to Vienna – more sites and things to think about en route and then Vienna at rush hour and with road works!!! Jut like NZ! More time to take in the buildings and people ( did a lot of that the night before in Vienna while we ate dinner. )

Interruption: Not sure if we have said but there a a lot of women – and I expect men also – of Muslim tradition in Vienna and Salzburg. Many fully burka-ed and others in long robes with head scarfs, Some with head scarves with very sexy tops, bottoms and shoes. All women whether burka–ed or otherwise were texting and talking on cell phones at all times.

Ok – we ate at Martins again that night ( having gone in search unsuccessfully of other eating houses with appeal) – this time I was disappointed with the meat dish but Stephen in paradise with his pasta dish. No worries as I grazed with enthusiasm on my potato salad and green salad – I do have to suss out the ingredients for the dressing they use on sauerkraut and potato salad.