\We have been away now for several weeks and Stephen has done the 'blogging' as I find not having a cursor on this tablet difficult. However I want to record a few moments so we don't forget.
Turkey: The hotel Miniature was just delightful. The staff was minimal - one person at the dessk 24 hours a day. The breakfast was cooked byone person. The breakfasts were delicious - they would cook what ever you wanted and also had a smorgasboard with the usual cheeses, hams, fruit , croissant and breads. Not to mention the wonderful coffee - Turkish and filter.
The presence of soliders and guards , all armed with a range of serious weapons, was not scary. Some how the atmosphere was just of folk going about their daily lives, although after the bombing that killed 4 police men there was a marked increase in their presence.On our trip to Galipoli peninsula our guide told me that people in Istanbul are very anxious about their safety.There was another bombing just after we left Turkey and s we decided to put off our planned visit back to Turkey to visit Ephaseus , Miletus etc while we were in Samos.Our favourite restaurant in Istanbul was run by a delightful young Turk who Stephen tried to persuade him to come to Onemana and run the cafe there. He would like to of course but it is not exactly straight forward. It was in that cafe that we had their Teste kebab - a casserole cooked in a pottery vase shaped vessel with tin fooil on the mouth of the 'vase". When cooked it is bought to your table and with a serioes of carefully placed whacks with a sharp implement the bottom pops off with an explosive 'POP" and your casserole slides out, deftly placed on your plate. We had seen many of these 'vases' with their tin foil lids placed out side the restaurants around lamp posts etc and wondered what they were.
The rules re clothing worn in the blue mosque are strict. We were both ok but I was amused to see a man wndering around wearing a long blue skirt over his shorts!
After we had visited the Blue mosque we were wandering through the market place. Having decided to exit between 2 stalls I saw a little house made of cardboard complete with pitched roof, window and open doorway. Through the window and doorway I saw 2 little tabby kittens playing with each other. Turning around I saw mother cat arrive with a roll of what looked like paper in her mouth. She dropped the paper when she saw us, greeted us with a 'meow' and went into the little house to check on her young. She emerged to tallk to us some more before we moved off. Just as we left I saw a piece of laminated paper taped to the roof of her house - "Madam Cocoa" . I thought that was quite delicious.
Galipoli: Stephen has written about this so all I will say is that I was surprised tthat it was not as bleak as I had expected it to be. Certainly the site was formidable for an offensive, landing on such narrow beaches with no protection from the Turks above them and the sheer incline that they had to scramble up. I wasn't prepared for seeing it on a gloriously hot day with bule skies and sparkling seas.r guide was very infomative and we learnt more about the campaign. I hadn't realised that at the time of the initial landing the number of Turkish forces present were considerably less than the ANZACs. At the 'Neck' the Turks were shouting to the ANZACs to stop advancing as they were being cut down to 'a man' by the Turks and they wanted the slaughter to cease. The commanding officer however knew best and so sent our men to their death. Of course the stories of the interactions between ANZACs and Turkish soiders are well documented.It really was a very special visit and a place that is beatifully preserved. The words by Ataturk inscribed at a memorial beside a large cemetery were very moving. As was the cemetery itself. Of course there are many memorials and graves - and of course many more men in unmarked graves. One of these is Stephen's great uncle Cyril Dunlop, buried somewhere around Lone Pine. We searched for his name on the memorial but didn't see it.
Troy: This was a superb visit also. Out guide is very passionate about the history of this site.I bought a book written by a well known and authoritative man who was our guide's 'tutor'. Certainly the site fits the legend in many ways. What I did learn is that the wars were most likely related to land goods, naturally! There is plenty of evidence that troops that supported Priam in his defence of Troy were folk from the surrounding countries and lands. It appears from the excavations that the Troy of Priam was about 1250 - 1180 BC. This time frame sits along side when Agamemnon rules Mycenae.
There are many layers of occupation at Troy - Troy I ( 3000 - 2500 BC) , Troy II ( 2,500 - 2,300), Troy III ( 2,300 - 1,700) when there was sequences of walled villages, each larger and more populous than the previous settlement. There were narrow streets with regular rows of houses. During this time the area had many invasions hence the need for the defensive walls. The delightful Schliemann removed all the walls of these settlements so there are not many remains of this era remaining.
Troy VI (1700 - 1250BC) free standing houses and fortification of walls changed to show advances in miliatry engineering, masonary and town planning.
Troy VIIa (1250 - 1180 BC) Troy was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake that ruined TroyVI.
Troy VIIb ( 1180 - 1,000) , after the Acheans ( Greeks ) left the citadel was occupied by the survivors until destryed by another fire.
Troy VIII ( 1000- 85BC) was the first Greek settlement at Troy.
Troy IX ( 85 - 400/600AD) the top layer of settlement on Hisarlik ( the site known as Troy) was Greek and Roman city.This was known as Novum Ilium. The early Roman emperors chose the Trojans as their ancestors! This city was the largest it had ever been , spreading all over the ridge. The greatest part of the city has not yet been excavated. To date there has been a music theatre, council chamber - senate unearthed.
There was only one other couple on our tour - both from NZ and lovely company.We spet some time in Chunakale before our trip had to Istanbul and during that time hunted unsuccessfully for Stephen to have a donner kebab. We did see however a delightful scene where a older man arrived at this stall on the water front by bike with a large plastic bag full of meat scraps. He called in loud Turkish and simply masses and masses of cats appeared, to fee voraciously on the meat he threw onto the quay.
The trip back to hotel miniature was made into a a bit of an endurance test an accident on the motor way in Istanbul which meant they closed the motor way and we took a very big detour to the hotel - arriving at midnight with an early departure the next morning to the airport anbags to be repacked!
However it was a great trip to have done despite the knolwedge that bad people were plotting to do bad things. Today we learnt of the attempted army coup in Turkey and yet more loss of life. The day before there was news of the attack via truck in Nice. As Pip says, interesting times to travel abroad. We were at a restaurant at a little village at Ormos near the hotel here in Samos last night when Vailiy - the son of the onwers of the hotel who had tken us there, received news of the attepted coup in Turkey. As you know Samos is very close indeed to Samos and he reflection was that it was a little too close for him.
OK - back to chronological comments. I am not sure what Stephen has written about Israel so there might be a double up. In. Briefly the highlights for me were the boat trip on the Sea of Galilee. Certainly the surrounding hills were very barren and grey. I understand from our guide that geological evidence indicates that at the time Jesus lived the climate was a little less harsh and there was a bit more green cover on the hills and plains.It wasn't the environment that made its impact. As we sailed there was a sensation of peace - odd for a country surrounded by hostility. I did wonder if I had prewired myself to sense this. Who can say? However it was a lovely - dare I quote " still voice of calm" and a sense of, yes - this is a very special place.
We were amazed and fascinated by what we learned about life for modern Israelis , from the various religions and cutoms,water supply, wars past and present - seeing smoke from gun fire on the Golan Heights over in Syria and the remains of fenced areas on the border where mines still lay hidden .
Staying in the kibutz , surrounded by a big range of men and women practicing various approaches to their faith with accompanying dress also increaed our awareness of their modus vivendi. The staff in the kibutz seemed solemn folk. The clothes worn by the various jewish 'sects' ( for lack of the right word) fascinated me - as did the ultra orhodox jews with all their rights and exemptions. Also the Drews ? (SP) which we had not known about. Such harsh strictures should they marry outside the faith.
The entire trip was amazing but the next memorable moment was in the garden of Gestheme ( sp?). I had not realise olive trees can - not all do - live for 2,000 years. I was unexpectedly aware of another sensation of - I am struggling here to say what it felt like. I had gone in very aware of the heat of the day - close to 40 degrees and the sun still blazing hot. I was also very aware of cranky knees and was dettermined not to let them stop me. In this very small area, fenced in on all sides by a wire fence ( I think) and a huge church on the side - looking at very ancient knarled trunks of still viable olive trees I felt something that 'moved' me - for lack of a better word. I have no idea if this site is truly 'the site' of Chrit's agony - but I certainly was aware of some sensation that told me this was a place of importance. It is quite a flat arae, a gentle incline to the garden then the fenced area - with ground rising more steeply behind it - not quite as envisioned from illuistartions seen in our youth. Our guide was very enthusiastic about the beauty of the city of Jerusalem - certainly the golden and honey coloured stone was stunning.
We saw lots more of course. I will just mention the dead sea. Again - some surprises. The level
Is dropping so fast as I am sure Stephen hs noted. I didn't expect it to be so muddy - our footsteps sank deep into the grey sludge, threatening to suck off our beach shoes.At one point stephen scrapped his shin on something sharp as he pulled up his leg - taking some skin off. Of course it graze became infected - thankfully I had taken an antibiotic cream. Even so it took some time to heal - as shin injuries tend to do - and the redness surrounding the site has finally just about disppeared. I hate to think what was in that sludge. People had been told of its healing properties and were lathering themseelves with the mud! We didn't stay long in the water and were glad of the showers afterwards. It was very hot indeed - somewhere around 40 degrees I believe.
Apart from being dropped off at the wrong hotel and the long wait while they sent us a taxi to transport us to our 'upgraded hotel' the tour was very well conducted. Despite having some trying members on his tour our guide was meticulous and very kind indeed.He was very well informed, some of his facts we are a little doubtful about but nonetheless he was interesting and patient. Becuase of the financial situation in Israel he provides a lot of support for his daughter and her family - he says without it she would 'drown'.
I continue to be amazed the fluency of English of the people we encounter. In a supermarket in Pylos - on the outskirts of the town I was at the meat counter, working out what meat we wanted for dinner and how much to ask for. As in a butcher in NZ the meat is cut according to size and the cut you want - rather than preprepared on trays with cling wrap. A voce interrupted my thoughts by inquiring if he could help. "Just tell me what you are looking for and I will help you! " Certainly not what I expected so far from the tourist centre.
Once in Greece it was lovely to be further away from the tourist centres. We go to see the sights we identify of interest but it is equally exciting driving along the crazy roads ( especially crazy in Greece) and into the little towns. We are still amazed by coming across unexpected treasures in the most unlikely places. Back in our accomodation we enjoy the peace and quiet - mostly peace and quiet! Here in Tre Fontane, Sicily, we are surronded by locals who are night owls with strident voices. It is OK as shut the shutters, close the windows - double glazed - and go to sleep.
Siesta is a serious business here in Sicily. We popped into the village family grocery shop at 2pm one day. We thought at first the shop had shut but no - the staff were hanging around the till talking loudly and were happy for us to shop. All lights, except from chiller cabinets were off so we groped around finding our goods, paid and beat it out into the hot sunshine. When we go into town after 7.30pm it looks a different place -everything is open and the place is humming.
I am jumping about a bit - we saw lots of fascinating stuff in the Peloponese, had lovely swims in the sea - water quite warm, gorgeous food, lovely pool at Ennalio Suites etc.
Samos is different again. The hotel Sophis where we stayed is really unique. I know Stephen has written about it - just suffice to say that seeing a Greek family operating their business at close up while living their lives in the midst of it was a real privilege. The parents and Vasily take guests out to local restaurants , ordering for them and joining in the fun. Sophia (Mumma) and her sons prepare a weekly Greek BBQ ( olive wwood fired) for the guests and while we were there she cooked a traditional wood fire dinner for us all. Sophia has little English but a graet joy of living - cheekily greeting guest new to the hotel wIth 'Kalimara' in the morning instead of Kalimera. Later she appears chuckling about 'octopus, octopus' Guests are tickled un suspectingly with plant fronds - slapping unsuspectingly at imaginary insects, Vasily bought lunch out for us one day - as we lay around the pool - calling "Get up lazy tourists , your lunch is here!" Lots of other horsing around but only with the audience they know will enjoy it so it is never offensive.
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