Back to our favourate hotel

29 June

Today we drove from Cortina d;Ampezzo to Trento via the most direct route.  This initially took us over 2 passes at around 2200m altitude, but a much less rapid climb and descent to yesterday.  There was no snow near the road, but there were large areas both above and below us.  At the Pordoi Pass we stopped to investigate the local souvenirs and test the temperature which was decidedly cool.  Many of the cable cars and chairlifts on the skifields were operating which surprised me as there didn't seem to be much demand.

Once again we noted the remote villages high on the valley sides which must be isolated in the winter and only liveable by the fit at any time.

After the Pordoi Pass we descended to a river valley with thick woodlands giving way to cultivation and vineyards.

Arriving at Trento we booked into Hotel Villa Cardinal Madruzzo and managed to get the same room we had in 2009, despite efforts by the receptionist to upgrade us to a first floor room in the original villa.  The hotel has added a new block, but still retains its quiet and elegant feel and wonderful staff.  As the hotel restaurant is closed on Sundays we went down the road to a local pizzeria for dinner.

I am still fascinated and  charmed by Hotel Villa Cardinal Madruzzo.  It was originally built as the summer palace for the first Cardinal Maruzzo in the 1400s  - there were 4 and was in the Madruzzo family until recent times - now is a wonderful hotel. We have noticed that it is a couple of degrees cooler here than in Trento itself - still packs a pretty hot punch in the sun!   The rooms are elegant -they have a tangible sense of calm and understated gentility. They provide all room facilities as well as a trouser press! Immaculately clean and very quiet.

As last time we have noted that in norther Italy the people are more softly spoken, gestures are more contained than the wild gesticulations and shouting in the south!In the hotel itself, as you make your way to the dining rooms, bar etc via the hall way -lined with farmed ancient documents under glass, ancient paintings of family , paintings of local environment over time even a Jane Austen style print!!! As you amble along drinking all this in there appears  a shoe cleaning machine for brown/ grey and black shoes. In the reception area are long thing plastic bags with  umbrellas printed on them - anti drip devices!

The breakfast is buffet - served in a wonderful old reception style room  with antique furniture, groaning under the wait of a spread of savoury and sweet food - the most delicious scrambled eggs! We eat in the main dining room and are waited on by lovely Italian men sporting formal dress suits attire, softly spoken serving our coffee and inquiring in an unobtrusive manner whether we have all we need.

We marvel at the decor - so consistent across the hotel ( marble columns, light shades in the general shape of a cardinal's  mitre (? correct word for a cardinal's hat?!) and all reflecting the original purpose of the palace as a retreat for Trento's Cardinal - a very important person in a very important job in the catholic world - from 1400 until Napoleon appeared in the early 1800s who put a stop to all this luxury! .

Outside is the garden - a park better describes the wide tree studded lawn. Each tree is labeled with its name - a lovely touch.

The central feature is a lovely pool and fountain, tastefully surrounded with local flowers, shrubs and people from the mountains - including a beautiful specimen of standing Dolomite stone - glowing with the lustrous lines of pink that glow in the mountains themselves.